Worldly Wisdom Guides 34 New Street
/By Arielle & Danny
foodies@longislandergroup.com
Nearly 14 years on, Siobhan Mulroy and Steve Camas continue to fulfill their globetrotting culinary mission at 34 New Street, bringing the world to their doorstep – and your plate – in Huntington village.
When they opened the doors to 34 New Street restaurant in January 2001, their goal was a simple, wide-reaching one: create a home for creative world cuisine drawing from all corners of the globe.
That mission helped them stand out in a crowded field. There were – and still are – so many good Italian-style restaurants, Siobhan said, so they decided, “Let’s do something a little different.”
Their signature flatbread remains a warm, aromatic welcome. So too was an autumnal Apple Cider Martini ($10), a smooth and sweet cocktail special brimmed in brown sugar and cinnamon.
34 New Street’s signature dishes remain consistent winners. We started with a Portobello stuffed with herbed goat cheese ($12), which, dressed up with zesty balsamic glaze, is lip-smackingly rich and moist. Thin-sliced, tender and crisp fried orange-sesame calamari ($12) is another can’t-miss starter with a little kick.
Sweet Brie with almonds ($7 small serving/$12 large) won over non-Brie lovers at our table with a sweet start and a nutty, mellow finish. New Street Clams ($12) is like a clams overload – whole fresh baked clams dressed in white wine garlic sauce are topped with a minced clam breadcrumb topping.
A similar story is true on the entrees menu. Apricot-Almond Chicken ($16) remains an anchor of the menu after 14 years, and Siobhan it will stay that way because their guests won’t have it any other way. And the traditional Spanikopita ($14) is Steve’s grandmother’s recipe, and another nod to the continental-global approach to dining at 34 New.
Other new favorites emerged. Bistro Steak Medallions ($21), pan-seared in a sweet marsala wine cream sauce with shallots, mushrooms and mustard seeds, is sumptuous and rib-sticking. Pumpkin Ravioli ($16), a special during our visit, is slightly fruity in a brown butter and apple cider sauce, and wonderfully comforting thanks to a pumpkin, mascarpone and ricotta, onion and sage filling. Likewise, sesame-crusted Honey Dijon pizza ($13), one of many personal pie choices, is comfort food personified – sweet and hearty with a mustardy pop.
Dessert brought an autumnal spin on crème brulee to the table, which, infused with apple cider, resulted in a lighter, yet still decadent, autumn treat. The great lunch specials continue for on-the-go dining and the mid-day nosh, and the pizza counter remains exemplary, so if you’re on the go, you won’t miss out.
Most dishes can be tailored for gluten-free and vegetarian diners. There’s no gluten-free pizza yet, though – Siobahn said she’s still holding out for the perfect gluten-free crust to serve. It’s symbolic of her work for nearly the last decade and a half – love all, serve all, and do it very well every time.
34 New Street
34 New St., Huntington village
631-427-3434
www.34newstreet.com
Atmosphere: Homey
Cuisine: Creative world cuisine
Price: Moderate
Hours: Wednesday-Thursday 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m. for lunch; 5 p.m.-9 p.m. for dinner; Friday 11:30 p.m.-5 p.m. for lunch; 5 p.m-9 p.m. for dinner; Saturday 5 p.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday 4 p.m.-9 p.m.