Worldly Wisdom Guides 34 New Street


By Arielle & Danny

foodies@longislandergroup.com


From left, waitress Alexa Pryor and manager Lisa Hockney respectively display Steak Medallions in Marsala Cream Sauce and Pumpkin Ravioli at 34 New Street, known for its creative world cuisine.

From left, waitress Alexa Pryor and manager Lisa Hockney respectively display Steak Medallions in Marsala Cream Sauce and Pumpkin Ravioli at 34 New Street, known for its creative world cuisine.

Nearly 14 years on, Siobhan Mulroy and Steve Camas continue to fulfill their globetrotting culinary mission at 34 New Street, bringing the world to their doorstep – and your plate – in Huntington village.

When they opened the doors to 34 New Street restaurant in January 2001, their goal was a simple, wide-reaching one: create a home for creative world cuisine drawing from all corners of the globe.

That mission helped them stand out in a crowded field. There were – and still are – so many good Italian-style restaurants, Siobhan said, so they decided, “Let’s do something a little different.”

Their signature flatbread remains a warm, aromatic welcome. So too was an autumnal Apple Cider Martini ($10), a smooth and sweet cocktail special brimmed in brown sugar and cinnamon.

The Apple Cider Martini goes down easy and brims with autumn flair.

The Apple Cider Martini goes down easy and brims with autumn flair.

34 New Street’s signature dishes remain consistent winners. We started with a Portobello stuffed with herbed goat cheese ($12), which, dressed up with zesty balsamic glaze, is lip-smackingly rich and moist. Thin-sliced, tender and crisp fried orange-sesame calamari ($12) is another can’t-miss starter with a little kick.

There’s a nice crisp and kick to thin-sliced orange-sesame calamari.

There’s a nice crisp and kick to thin-sliced orange-sesame calamari.

Sweet Brie with almonds ($7 small serving/$12 large) won over non-Brie lovers at our table with a sweet start and a nutty, mellow finish. New Street Clams ($12) is like a clams overload – whole fresh baked clams dressed in white wine garlic sauce are topped with a minced clam breadcrumb topping.

Sweet brie flatbreads are a classic, perfect for starting and finishing alike.

Sweet brie flatbreads are a classic, perfect for starting and finishing alike.

A similar story is true on the entrees menu. Apricot-Almond Chicken ($16) remains an anchor of the menu after 14 years, and Siobhan it will stay that way because their guests won’t have it any other way. And the traditional Spanikopita ($14) is Steve’s grandmother’s recipe, and another nod to the continental-global approach to dining at 34 New.

Other new favorites emerged. Bistro Steak Medallions ($21), pan-seared in a sweet marsala wine cream sauce with shallots, mushrooms and mustard seeds, is sumptuous and rib-sticking. Pumpkin Ravioli ($16), a special during our visit, is slightly fruity in a brown butter and apple cider sauce, and wonderfully comforting thanks to a pumpkin, mascarpone and ricotta, onion and sage filling. Likewise, sesame-crusted Honey Dijon pizza ($13), one of many personal pie choices, is comfort food personified – sweet and hearty with a mustardy pop.

Popular Honey Dijon pizza is one of many personal pie choices.

Popular Honey Dijon pizza is one of many personal pie choices.

Dessert brought an autumnal spin on crème brulee to the table, which, infused with apple cider, resulted in a lighter, yet still decadent, autumn treat. The great lunch specials continue for on-the-go dining and the mid-day nosh, and the pizza counter remains exemplary, so if you’re on the go, you won’t miss out.

Most dishes can be tailored for gluten-free and vegetarian diners. There’s no gluten-free pizza yet, though – Siobahn said she’s still holding out for the perfect gluten-free crust to serve. It’s symbolic of her work for nearly the last decade and a half – love all, serve all, and do it very well every time.


34 New Street

34 New St., Huntington village

631-427-3434

www.34newstreet.com


Atmosphere: Homey

Cuisine: Creative world cuisine

Price: Moderate

Hours: Wednesday-Thursday 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m. for lunch; 5 p.m.-9 p.m. for dinner; Friday 11:30 p.m.-5 p.m. for lunch; 5 p.m-9 p.m. for dinner; Saturday 5 p.m.-10 p.m.; Sunday 4 p.m.-9 p.m.