German Cuisine At Its Finest
Putting a German spin on the American dream, Frederick’s of Melville has served up a tradition of consistency for the last three decades.
Owner Kris Wolff inherited the family business from his father, Wilfred, who opened the restaurant in 1979 after moving to the area from Germany.
The simple, homey dining room offers a cozy and intimate setting for the restaurant’s loyal patrons, who frequent the Walt Whitman Road destination for an honest home-cooked meal. The vibrant red napkins complement each table setting’s faux red roses, and the dark green carpets and paneling is the perfect backdrop for a cozy and intimate dining experience.
A product of the industry, Wolff said he grew up busing and waiting tables, worked as a chef at the Four Seasons in Manhattan, and assumed full responsibility of the Frederick’s kitchen after his father retired in 2001.
The bubbly hostess was quick to make us comfortable during our two-hour stay at Frederick’s and graciously flooded our table with some appetite-whetting appetizers.
The Maryland Crab Cakes ($11.50), served with a tangy homemade remoulade sauce, is a savory, memorable starter. The coconut shrimp ($15), served with a honey-orange dipping sauce, are cooked to perfection, allowing the otherwise mild shrimp’s meaty texture and taste to shine through. Topped with subtle flakes of coconut, the flavor was anything but overbearing and added texture to the dish.
We got a real taste for Frederick’s German flavor in the Sauerbraten, marinated beef eye-round served with a homemade potato pancake and deliciously thin-sliced homemade red cabbage. The evenly-cooked beef eye-round is complemented well by the rich-on-the-inside, crisp-on-the-outside potato pancake, a mild but hearty side. Our favorite part was the cabbage, which had a fresh flavor hinting at beets.
The lobster-stuffed Filet of Sole ($38.75) is beautifully plated and comes with a hearty helping of garlic sautéed spinach that wowed us at the table. The tender, slightly chewy and diced lobster meat has a smoky flavor to it, and complements the mild and filet of sole.
The crowd-pleaser of the meal, and Wolff’s admitted “anchor” dish, was the Porcini-Crusted Chicken Breast ($19.25), a cost- — and appetite- — effective entrée. Served on the bone, the French chicken comes with a light breadcrumb dusting and is evenly smothered in thinly sliced porcini mushrooms. The dish is savory and memorable. Frederick’s takes the dish one step further by incorporating traditional German spetzel, a deceivingly fluffy and slightly crisp potato flour dumpling.
Wolff said he tries to mix up some menu items, but stays loyal to his client base who come into the restaurant for their favorite staples, including the German classics.
We capped off our continental cuisine experience at Frederick’s with a delicious raspberry crème brulee dessert, a smooth and tangy take on the French classic.